Rick’s Miditzer

Photo Gallery for Member's Miditzers
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Fred Heine
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Post by Fred Heine » Sat Feb 03, 2007 1:52 pm

Thanks,
 
I never though of using Disk ribbon cables.
 
Fred

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engrssc
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Post by engrssc » Sat Feb 03, 2007 4:25 pm

A good ribbon cable is a color coded, 34 conductor cable manufactured by 3M. I purchased one from Allied Electronics, but no doubt there are other sources. 3M - 3302/34 - Allied Electronics
 
I found it a great advantage to use color coded vs the "regular" flat grey ribbon cable especially for terminating the cables to connectors. Certainly minized possible errors and well worth the slightly extra cost. 2 were needed for each manual. With all these connections, zero errors is a good thing.
 
Ribbon cables between Rodgers keyers to MD-1 MIDI encoders.
 

 
 
 
 
 
Rgds,
EdJoe2007-06-12 08:19:35

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greenfox
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Post by greenfox » Sun Feb 04, 2007 6:34 pm

Hi Fred
 
The others have answered your question well.  I used 50 way grey IDC cable.  It is available from local electronic shops.  The 50 way allowed me to group the 4x 10 way together as one cable to each of the MidiBox DIN cards (you just peal off the last 10x as one piece and use to link your DIN cards).  I did not find the all grey wires a problem as wiring was simply common 5Vdc, Not Used, then 8x key switches.  I wired them consecutively off the loom and programmed their function in the software.greenfox2007-08-26 20:05:39

aussiedave
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Post by aussiedave » Sat Feb 10, 2007 4:55 pm

Gday Rick- later today I will post the pics for the start of my "Miditzer Bitzer"  . About to order ribbon cable and thinking i should prob order some piston buttons in the same parcel - got ample space to slot in plenty under the music rack- virtually in the same place the stop tabs normally go.
 
cheers
Dave

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greenfox
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Post by greenfox » Sun Feb 11, 2007 6:29 am

Good to see your progress Dave.
 
The stand looks good.  My Yamaha console is not what you would call compact.  I intend to make a compact transportable version.
 
The momentary switches I have used for pistons are from Jaycar Electronics at about $1.50ea (AU$)  You could order them at the same time as the ribbon cable.

Philip77
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Post by Philip77 » Mon Apr 09, 2007 5:32 pm

Hello, Rick,I was wondering how your Yamaha project is coming along? How are the additional pistons working for you?Thanks to your generous postings here, and your kind support in answering my many questions, my E-3R project is virtually complete. I am just amazed at how well everything is working, and am thoroughly enjoying many countless hours playing it.You may be interested in viewing my post on the MIDIbox forum at http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=8970.0, which includes a link to the project's photo album.Again, many thanks,    and all the best,       Philip

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greenfox
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Post by greenfox » Tue Apr 10, 2007 6:18 pm

Hi Philip
 
Well done.  Your organ certainly looks very familiar however you have surged past where I am up to with mine.
My project has gone on hold.  We have decided to sell our house.  We have decided on a list of jobs to finish as a part renovation of this house.  One of these included getting the timber floors polished meaning the organ had to move.  It has ended up in storage under the house and will not come out till we move.  One of the key reasons to move will be to get a new house with a music room / mini theatre.  I will have somewhere to put the organ, piano, keyboard and piano accordion where I can close the door and be out of the way of the family.
The pistons were working but I hadn't gone any further.  The expression pedal function will be my first priority when I can get back to the organ.  House renovations are continuing to take all my 'spare' time.

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moonskin
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Post by moonskin » Sat May 12, 2007 8:19 am

Hi Rick and Philip

I've just agreed to purchase a Yamaha from an aquaintance who has decided to sell his collection of organs. I'm pretty sure from Philip's photos that it is an E-3R or at least very similar. I could not get to the back of it to check.

Point is that it is fully functional and in virtually mint condition. It hardly looks like it has been played.

Do either of you know what keying the Yamaha uses? If it's DC of some sort I'll probably try to keep the analog functions for posterity and make a control surface that sits on top rather than gut the thing. I'm prepared to do that though if the keying is not DC.

From Rick's photos, I suspect it's not.

Cheers
Graham

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greenfox
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Post by greenfox » Sun May 13, 2007 7:46 am

Hi Graham
 
Sounds like a good find.  I think you will be more comfortable playing on a layout with the keyboards and pedals in the correct position relative to the stool.  It doesn't lend its self to a horse-shoe tab layout, but your new panels should work laid straight along the top.
 
I have sent you a schematic of mine I found on the web.  The scanning is a bit poor however it should give you an idea of what is going on.  (it is a 4MB file so I hope it is not too big for your email provider)

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greenfox
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Post by greenfox » Sat Dec 08, 2007 6:32 am

It has been a while since I made any progress past my initial playable point.  Helping a friend Midify a Conn 652, and the new version of Miditzer Style 216 has got me going to get single pedal Swell control running.
 
I now have a bare pot working as a hand control for SWELL through the MidiBox CORE so I decided to look into how the existing expression pedal works on my gutted Yamaha B5AR.  I knew it was an optical system.  I pulled it apart tonight to see how it ticks.  It uses a 24Vdc bulb and drives 2x independent circuits each with an LDR (light dependant resistor), a poly capacitor and a couple of resistors.  I have previously taken out all the Yamaha electrical so needed to power the bulb separately.  I found a 12Vdc supply to try.  The LDR circuits are passive so don't require any power.  What I have found is that with the pedal wide open I get about 3 ohms, and with the pedal fully closed I get about 180Kohm.
 
Now I am not sure how I can use this to connect to the CORE.  "A0" is looking for a voltage divider circuit.  This is just 1 variable resistor with out the third leg of inverse resistance.
If I put a current limiting resistor on one side of it to ground, what value should I chose?
Is there some other circuit I should run this signal through to get the type of output I need?
The second circuit works in parallel so I don't think can be tied in to give the inverse resistance?

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